Alone Again Naturally...

After a wonderful nearly two weeks I walked thru the arid Spanish landscape into the Meseta and out the other side with Lisa, but alas she jumped on a train this morning after getting a bus yesterday. She fell ill and lost the will to keep walking so shes off to do a few short days walk into santigo and then continue her European travels. Today was the only day I walked all on my own since my very first day about 44 days ago. I suppose on one side I felt a little lonely but the truth is I felt; free as a bird, Again like starting all over: I have about 400kms ahead before finisterre(the end of the land) and the Atlantic ocean. 400kms of adventures and friends im yet to meet.

The Meseta has been, I think, the most beautiful landscape I walked thru. All day long on a straight gravel path with nothing around you except flat arid fields and a sky every shade of blue possible from cyan along the horizon to deep rich blue above the head. Didnt see a cloud for three or four days.

A little example of my days, last night I arrived in the albergue where I was staying absolutely in bits. In the morning I had got the illness Lisa had which resulted in "the trots" and a general physical weakness. But I had to walk 30km to make it into Leon for today to meet Lisa. I made the 30k but it was hell and the last 6 or 7 as the sun burned down on me I was really losing the will and my mind. but I made it.

I payed my 4€ accomodation fee and went to my bed, where i was informed in spanish thru sign language that I would be eating with them. I hadnt eaten all day for fear it would go horribly wrong in between towns as I walked but I happily accepted now and hovered around the kitchen ravanous and waiting. Two friends I had picked up were there Javier and Manollo, Manollo doesnt speak english but we always meet with a laugh and a handshake. Hes a really tricky character like a car dealer except funnier, with thinning waxed back hair, a cunning eye and a raspy smokers laugh. Hes always the first with a joke or a nudge and a laugh.

So eventually the 7 of us sat down to eat. Only Javier had broken english. the rest told stories (in spanish) the whole evening, each one met with more laughter than the last. I was a spectator of course but it was a pleasure, I could guess what most of the stories involved anyway, them being told by 6 lads, so I felt at home even tho I didnt understand fully and the lads would try to sign language a bit every now and then. But the food was delicious( salad, garlic soup and spanish traditional tortilla) and the wine flowed. After some mandarins for deserts, one guy gets a bottle of brandy, lemon skin and cloves - all in a pot and sets it on fire - whoosh - after a couple of minutes we all enjoyed this sweet syrupy drink still warm, fantastic. All that for five euro and a hand washing the dishes.

Then I got the email from Lisa saying she was catching a train so I was a little sad in the night. But I laughed in the morning as the rising sun let me bathe in its light, My knuckles were cold but I was on the road again, Leon today. Sheer joy is the morning, joy to be walking to yet another unseen spanish town, anew vista, new people as of yet only letters in my guidebook but soon to be real things to touch and see.

They say Buen Camino here to pilgrims which is "good way" but I dont like it, makes the whole thing sound like a boy scout trip to disneyland, I just say "Good Day or good morning" Buenos Diaz and it usually is.